|
1. SpaceBefore anything else you need to find a place in your home for your snail. Ideally on a furniture top or a shelf next to an electrical plug. The use of plug extensions is not advised with any heating apparatus such as a heat mat &/or thermostat. Please keep in mind that the chosen space should be out of reach of young children & pets for everyone’s safety. Ideally this space should not be directly in front of open windows as sudden changes in temperature negatively affect snails. Also keep in mind that snails do not enjoy direct sunlight or bright lights. |
2. Tank
G.A.L.S. need a well-ventilated sturdy plastic or glass tank with a secure lid. A tank for 1 or 2 adult, average sized G.A.L.S. should be a minimum of 40 cm in length, 30 cm width and 30 cm in height (1200 cm²/ 36 litres). The ratio of these dimensions can vary and the tank can be larger but it ideally should not be taller than 30 cm. This is because snails like to hang upside down from the lid of the tank and often enough they will fall off. If the tank is very high this will increase the chance of the snail breaking it’s shell during a fall. Hatchlings, juvenile and small snails should be housed in a smaller thank till they are larger. Small snails use up a lot of energy searching for food, so a small tank with lots of food spread out helps them grow quicker and healthier. For more information on caring for young snails please visit: EGGS & BABY G.A.L.S |
|
1. PLASTIC STORAGE TUB These are the most recommended, effective, economical and commonly used housing for snails. These are sometimes referred to by the brand name RUBs (really useful box). The plastic box should be of good quality with tick plastic that can handle height and is water resistant. The lid does not need to have a lock but should be able to close safely. Storage tubs might not be the most astatically pleasing but are ideal in every other aspect. I would advice this option to all new snail keepers. Holes need to be added to the tub for ventilation. Please visit > Adding Ventilation |
2. PLASTIC TERRARIUM / FISH TANK Plastic terrariums or plastic fish tanks are very similar to Storage tubs. They come ready with air holes on the lid, these usually create to much ventilation towards the top of the tank, loosing humidity, in other cases to much humidity is retained in the soil, making it to wet. Depending on temperature and humidity your particular G.A.L.S require one might need to cover some of the ventilation holes form the lid, and/or adding holes on the sides of the tank. |
3. GLASS VIVARIUM / TERRARIUM Glass vivariums or glass terrariums would be the most expensive choice as snail housing. They are astatically pleasing, but they are sometimes tricky to use. It is sometimes difficult to cover some of the existing ventilation holes and very hard to add any new holes if needed. Thus controlling humidity can be tricky. Some also say they can be hard to maintain warm. (Please also read the paragraph about lighting). Having said this many keep snails in Glass vivarium / terrariums and it’s just a question of trial and error till a balance if found. |
4. GLASS FISH TANK Glass fish tanks are more aesthetically pleasing then a plastic tub, but are a lot more complicated to maintain. Usually it is hard to add any extra ventilation to an existing lid, and very hard to add any holes to the glass sides. Thus controlling humidity can be tricky. Some also say they can be hard to maintain warm. (Please also read the paragraph about lighting). Having said this many keep snails in Glass tanks successfully but maybe should be left for more experienced keepers. |
LIGHTING
Snails do not need nor enjoy light. If the lid contains a light tube, the tube and it’s fitting will need to be removed or somehow covered. Alternatively a replacement lid could be constructed from plastic, metal or glass. (not wood, see next point). One needs to be make sure the new lid is secure & escape proof. |
WOOD
Any type of wood housing needs to be avoided. Wood will warp and/or grow mould as it can’t handle the high humidity snails need to be housed in. In some cases snails can eat through the wood and either escape or die from ingesting the wood. |
3. SUBSTRATESnails need a thick layer of bedding covering their whole tank. The minimum thickness of the substrate should always be enough for the snails to fully dig into, and be fully submerged. Substrate should ideally never be replaced, but poop and old food should be removed daily. The substrate should be stirred up twice a week and ever 3 months or so fresh coir is to be added to top it up. There are 2 options for substrate: |
|
COCONUT COIR SOIL
This is the recommended option for substrate, it is natural, it holds humidity very well & it is very economical. Coconut fibre humus is made from the fibres of coconut shells. This product is always meant to be Peat-free and unfertilised, but please always check the label. Coconut coir soil commonly comes in blocks. The blocks need to be soaked in warm water for a few minutes to absorb it; the brick then softens and expands. Coco coir can be bought from reptile pet shops, Garden centres, DIY stores and even some pound shops.
|
COMPOST
This compost needs to be organic, non-acidic and NOT contain : peat, fertilizer and added chemicals. This is obviously because they are highly harmful to the snails and can cause many sorts of ailments, and effectively can cause death. To the above substrates you can add chopped up moss which increases the humidity to the tank. You can also add leaf litter which adds moisture and nutrients in the soil. Keep reading for more information or go directly to MOSS or LEAF LITTER.
|
4. SPRAY BOTTLEA spray bottle is used to mist the enclosure daily. Depending on the humidity required for the snail species and your setup, they will need misting once or twice daily. Room temperature or slightly warmer water is ideal. Tap water that is acceptable for human consumption is ok to use, while distilled water is ideal. Many snail keepers use bottled water or boiled tap water. If using tap water, we advice to leave it in an open container for 24 hours before use. Chlorine will evaporate out of the water in 12- 24 hours, making it just as healthy as bottled water. Always make sure no chemicals such as soap are present in or on the spray bottle. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
6. MOSS
Moss is essential for snails. It is great for retaining moisture and keeping humidity levels up. Snails very much enjoy hiding and sleeping in the moss. Most types of mosses are safe to use with snails. The most common and effective type of moss used in snail housing is sphagnum moss. This can be found in garden centers. |
|
7. CALCIUM
Snails need a constant supply of calcium in their enclosure. < Very important Calcium can be provided in various forms such as : Cuttle fish, limestone powder, crushed egg shells, and crushed oyster shells. For more information on this please visit: FEEDING G.A.L.S.
|
|
|
8. THERMOMETERSnails are very sensitive to temperature, and sudden temperature changes. Each snail species requires to be kept in it's ideal preferred temperature. For more information on this topic please visit: TYPES OF GALS
Because of this a thermometer is an essential piece of equipment for monitoring. While both mechanical and digital thermometers are good, digital ones are much better.
Mechanical thermometers will only measure the temperature of the air inside of the tank, while a digital one with a probe will measure the temperature anywhere the probe is placed. Digital thermometers are also more durable and accurate.
Snails will borrow to a cooler or warmer area to reach a temperature they like. And thus it is important to monitor the temperature of the soil on the warm part of the tank (on the side of the heat mat). This temperature reading should match the temperature required by the type of G.A.L.S. you have. The probe should be placed in the mid-dept of the soil above the heat mat. |
|
|
Keeping your snails in a temperature they like can sometimes be tricky. If the snails are inactive it might indicate they want a slightly higher or lower temperature then advised. Remember snails are very sensitive to temperature and this any change should be done gradually over a period of time. |
|
9. HYGROMITERSnails are very sensitive to humidity, and each snail species requires to be housed in a particular level of humidity. For more information on this topic please visit: TYPES OF GALS Because of this a hygrometer is an important piece of equipment for monitoring. While both mechanical and digital hygrometer are good, digital ones tend to be better. Mechanical hygrometers tend to be less accurate and stop working after a short time. Digital hygrometers are usually a little better.
|
|
|
10. HEAT MATTo keep the temperature at a constant warmth, and avoid health issues &/or hibernation, the use of The heat mat can be placed on one of the larger sides of the tank or at the bottom.
|
|
|
|
|
|
11. THERMOSTAT
While they are likely the most expensive part of a G.A.L.S. set-up they are of extreme importance. Not only do thermostats automatically monitor and regulate temperatures (arguably the most important aspect of G.A.L.S husbandry) they help protect against faulty heat mats resulting in overheating and/or fires. Whilst G.A.L.S can tolerate cool temperatures for a period, severe overheating can cause death in just a few minutes. It is implausible for a G.A.L.S keeper to check the temperature of the enclosure several times a day and night and switch the heat mat on or off accordingly, and even if this was feasible it doesn’t take out the possibility of a faulty heat mat. Enclosures with thermostatically controlled heat mats have little to worry about, but without one the results can be fatal.
|
|
12. REFLECTIVE MATERIAL
To increase the efficiency of your heat mat it is advised to place a reflective material such as foil or proper reflective insulation underneath it. This way most of the heat is encouraged to go the opposite direction of the foil and into the tank. You can also use radiator reflectors or anything similar that is reflective and heat proof. |
|
|
13. SAFEGUARD MATERIALIt is advised to place a safeguard material touching the heat mat and foil. This is done to safe guard the furniture it is set on to or next to. The best thing to use is Polystyrene boards used for packaging or insulation. Some of these come with a reflective side that is ideal to be used with or instead of foil. Some people use thick card board as a safe guard material, which is acceptable but not as effective. While selecting this safe guard material please make sure you don’t use anything that can be melted by the heat mat, such as thin plastics. |
|
|
14. WATER BOWL
Snails do not need a proper water source as they obtain water from their food and form the condensation inside of their tank. Having said this if one wishes a shallow plastic bowl or plant saucer can be added in a medium sized or adult snails enclosure, but is it not safe to use for young snails, as they can easily drown. Some snails really enjoy taking baths in their bowls and thus could be a great source of enrichment. You can choose not to have a bowl, to place one occasionally or to permanently provide one. A water source can increase the humidity of an enclosure greatly, especially if placed on the warm side of the tank. Please monitor the humidity and the wetness of the substrate closely if you choose to introduce a water bowl. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
15. LEAF LITTERThis is not essential but can be beneficial. Fallen leaves should be only foraged from safe areas where there is little or/no smog and absolutely no chemical such as pesticides or fertiliser therefore only collect away from paths and roads. These leaves should be checked and washed with water to make sure no unwanted living creatures make their way in the enclosure. They can then be placed on top or mixed in with the soil. Leaf litter can be enrichment for snails but also can add beneficial chemicals to the soil. While foraging please do so only from a sustainable source and only take the amount you need. If you are not keep on foraging yourself or are far from a good source, leaf litter is available to be bought online. |
16. DECOREDecor can be added for enrichment and for aesthetics. Fake plants – should ideally be made of plastic and not of silk/cloth. Many snail keepers use silk plants without any issues, but at least once there has been a reported case of a snail eating the silk plants and dieing as a result. Branches & bark- should ideally not be too sturdy and not made of : Pine, Cedar & all evergreen trees. A common wood used for exotics is cork bark as it can withstand the high humidity of an exotic enclosure. While there are limitless possibilities of decor always avoid anything hard, such as rocks and ceramic or metal ornaments, as the snail could fall on top of them and break it’s shell. This unfortunately happens frequently. Also avoid decor made of anything edible that isn’t snail safe, such as card board, or covered in varnish such as wood ornaments or wicker.
|
|
|
17. LIVE PLANTSThese are not essential, but are a nice and possibly practical addition to the enclosure. Depending on the plant it can act as decoration, enrichment and as a hide, but also as a source of food. Please note that G.A.L.S. do not enjoy direct sunlight and thus some of these plants will not thrive in an enclosure. |
18. CLEAN-UP CREW
|
|
|
|
